REAL Oatmeal Bread

Pour 2 c. boiling water over 1 c. oats. Add 1/2 c. molasses, 2 t. salt, 1 T. butter or coconut oil, 1 yeast cake dissolved in 1/2 c. warm water, and 6 c. flour (can sub part whole wheat or oat flour). Beat thoroughly, let rise, knead. Turn into 2 buttered loaf pans and let rise again. Bake at 375° for 50 mins.

This was my granny's recipe and I suspect it goes back many generations. In fact, in the odd little Massachusetts town where I grew up, one local bakery sold a bread very similar to this which they called "Goodenow bread" as Goodenows were one of the original founding families in the town in the 1600s. Cool, right?

Please note that one can make this bread gluten-free by using certified gluten-free oats and oat flour or gluten-free baking flour in place of the wheat flour. The consistency will be a little different, but it will still be delicious.

Potato-Chard Frittata

In a large oven-proof skillet, saute 1 sliced onion for about 5 mins. Add 1 bunch chard and 1 medium potato, both thinly sliced. Cover and cook until soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in 2 cloves pressed garlic, 10 beaten eggs, 1 1/2 c. shredded cheese, 1 T. oregano, and salt to taste. Cook on medium for 5 mins then move to 375° oven and bake until the whole thing is set, about 15 mins more. Serve warm.

Not-Too-Rich Goat Cheese and Vegetable Tart

Lightly saute 2 cups chopped veggies, then place in bottom of prepared pie crust. In a separate bowl, beat together 1/2 container cottage cheese and 1/4 c. goat cheese with a little milk until light and fluffy. Add 2 eggs and beat again. Pour this mixture over the veggies and add optional salt and 1/2 t. dried oregano. Bake at 370° for about 45 mins, or until set.

I made this last night with a combination of fresh corn and zucchini, in a whole wheat crust (though I imagine a cornmeal crust would have been tasty too). It was light and fluffy, and even the goat-cheese skeptics at the table liked it because the goat cheese flavor was very mild. Next time I plan to make it with spinach and sweet red peppers.

Vegetarian Rice Noodles with Chili and Basil

Heat 1 T. coconut oil in a pan and add 2 c. veggies (large-cut red pepper, carrot, onion, and broccoli/rapini work well) plus 1-inch cubes of firm tofu. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, for about 8 mins. Add 1 T. oil and scramble 1 egg, beaten, in the bottom of the pan. Once egg is cooked add minced garlic, basil leaves, 1/4 c. soy sauce, chili sauce or powder to taste, and a dash Worcestershire sauce and stir. Remove from heat and toss with 2 c. cooked rice noodles.

This is not authentically anything, but it's cheap and easy and I like it!

White Bean Spread with Roasted Red Peppers (vegan)

Rinse 1 1/2 c. cooked white beans or 1 can organic white beans. Put in blender with 1 clove garlic, juice of 1/2 lemon, 1 T. balsamic vinegar, dash olive oil, 1 roasted red pepper, 1 t. dried oregano, and salt to taste. Blend well. Alternately, chop the garlic and red pepper first and then mash all ingredients together with a fork instead of blending.

This is my cross between hummus and an Italian-style pepper spread or dip. It is lighter than both, but just as flavorful.

Lentil Sprouts (raw and vegan)

Place 1 c. lentils in a large jar and rinse with water. Cover with fresh water and leave overnight in a cool, dark place. In the morning, rinse the lentils again and drain. Place a cheesecloth over the jar and secure it with a rubber band. Place the jar with the top facing down at a diagonal, allowing water to drain out while air circulates. Cover jar with a clean cloth to keep the light out. Leave it in this position for 1–2 days, rinsing and draining lentils every 6—8 hours. Sprouts are ready when their "tails" are about 1/4 inch long. Remove them from the jar, rinse once more, and spread on a paper towel to dry for an hour or so.

ODE TO A LENTIL

A while back my friend Jessy and I spent an evening talking about one of our great unsung heroes, the inexpensive yet highly nutritious lentil. (Now you know how I spend my Friday nights.) Jessy is a glowing vegan raw foodist while I am beer-swilling, unapologetic carnivore, yet both of us can come together in appreciation for this culinary heavy-hitter; few foods are as versatile and easy to prepare, which makes them a useful food for just about everyone. Moreover they are absurdly cheap, cheap, cheap, even the organic ones, and easy to find in several varieties at even the most depressing suburban supermarket.

Lentils are one of the longest-standing cultivated plants known. According to acclaimed naturopath and nutrition writer Dr. Michael Murray, lentil seeds have been discovered at Near and Middle East sites dating back as far as 6000 BC and have been a continuous agricultural staple ever since. Today, they remain an important protein source throughout the world especially in developing areas where meat protein is too expensive for daily consumption or where religious practice forbids it from time to time. Yet for some odd reason, they are not a mainstay of the Standard American Diet; they show up periodically in a "soup of the day" or as part of vegetarian home cooking, but like other legumes they are used more as an occasional specialty ingredient. Perhaps, in a food culture that honors meat as the linchpin of the meal with everything else being planned around it, there's just no obvious place for the humble lentil except as a "meat substitute." Epithet.

What many Americans-- especially us carnivores-- fail to realize is that lentils pack a lot of nutritional benefits that meats do not, and at a fraction of the cost. In addition to being an excellent source of protein (most of you knew that already), lentils are also rich in cholesterol-lowering, blood-sugar-balancing fiber; in fact, cooked lentils contain as much fiber per gram as prunes and even more than apples! And unlike protein foods from animal sources, lentils contain almost no fat-- making them an excellent dietary choice for anyone worried about controlling their intake of bad fats such as oxidized saturated fats. Lentils also contain essential minerals such as phosphorus, iron, potassium, and magnesium and, when eaten soaked or sprouted, may even be a good source of folic acid.

All this aside, of course, lentils are delicious and easy to prepare in a variety of ways. Below, I've provided some tips for buying and using lentils:

• Lentils can be eaten sprouted (raw), soaked overnight and lightly cooked, cooked longer for soups, stews, and Indian-type dahl dishes, even cooked and mashed to make "burgers," and even ground into flour.

• Brown, green, and "French" lentils are the most commonly found varieties in American supermarkets, but black, yellow, red, and orange varieties are also available and may be sold whole or split. The smaller types, especially red and orange ones, are excellent for soup.

• Buy your lentils dry; they cook quickly enough that there's no real advantage to buying canned ones, plus the canned ones may contain funky additives and residues (residues from can manufacturing will not be included on ingredients labels) and may also have a gummy consistency.

• Look for stores that sell dried lentils in bulk. Buying in bulk is better for the environment because it saves packaging, what's more it saves you the cost of paying for packaging and you can get exactly as much as you want. Generally, stores with quick turnover will stock a fresher product.

• Store lentils in a cool, dry, airtight container. My own personal favorite container is the clean, de-labelled, would-have-otherwise-been-recycled glass jar; these protect your lentils from critters and allow you to see inside. When the jar is empty, you may even be able to take it directly to the bulk department at your favorite health food store and fill it on the spot, no plastic bags needed!

• Dry lentils will keep in an airtight container for 6 months.

• Rinse lentils well before using and pick out any stones or other debris.

• It's not necessary to soak lentils the same way you should soak other legumes, however, soaking them will speed up cooking time. Lentils make a particularly tasty salad when simply soaked overnight and then steamed for 5–10 minutes and marinated in lemon juice, olive oil, paprika, and chopped parsley.

• It's almost impossible to over-salt lentils; in fact, lentils simply cooked in well-salted water make a perfectly tasty dish, especially when accompanied with hot sauce.

• According to Dr. Jeffrey Bland, 6 cups of raw sprouted lentils contain 50 grams of protein-- enough to meet an adult's protein needs for an entire day. Sprouted lentils make a great addition to raw salads, smoothies, dehydrated crackers, and breads. They also contain phytonutrients not available in cooked lentils.

• If you make too much of your favorite cooked lentil dish, pop the leftovers in the freezer; lentils actually retain their shape and taste quite well when frozen.

Sweet and Spicy Pumpkin Soup (vegan)

Cook 1 large onion, thinly sliced, in a little oil until soft and very brown. Add 1 large can pumpkin puree (not pie mix!), same volume stock or water, 2 T. vinegar, 1 t. chili flakes, and salt to taste. Cook on medium heat for about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 1/2 c. or more of coconut milk (optional). Serve.

The Chocolate-Covered Cherry

In a jar with lid or a cocktail shaker, mix 2 parts cherry juice, 2 parts vodka, 1 part chocolate liqueur (such as Godiva), and ice. Shake well. Strain into martini glasses.

Note: Ask your doctor— or your nutritionist— if you are healthy enough to consume alcoholic beverages.

HEY WAIT, THAT FLACCID KALE IS PERFECTLY EDIBLE!

In light of the recent economic downturn, that relatively free-spending era of my youth— the decade or so surrounding, oh, the year Madonna released "Material Girl"— seems positively wasteful. Case in point, I remember how my friends and I used to laugh at one elementary-school classmate for carrying his lunch in used plastic breadbags when everyone else had a crisp brown paper bag each day... everyone other than me, that is, since I did not bring lunch from home but instead bought prepackaged bologna sandwiches at school. I felt particularly cool that my lunch came wrapped in multiple layers of plastic on a disposable styrofoam tray. Being able to throw stuff out meant that I was not cheap, my family was not "poor"— we had resources to burn, or so went the conventional 3rd-grade wisdom. Oh, how times have changed!

Now I proudly catalog the ways I can be cheap, especially when it comes to food. It pains me to throw anything out. I freeze shrimp shells for stock, make old milk into yogurt, and toast bread heels to make croutons. Old tortillas are great for chilaquiles, and even fatty pieces cut from a roast can be thrown into a pot of beans later. I exercise my most obsessively artful stinginess when it comes to produce, however. There really is almost no reason to throw out old fruits and vegetables unless they smell like death or wiggle of their own volition. Moreover, with a little advanced legwork you can prolong the freshness of your vegetables by days or even weeks. If you aren't convinced, keep reading.

Helping Fresh Vegetables Live Longer, More Productive Lives: Some vegetables belong in the refrigerator, while others do not. All green vegetables belong in the fridge, as do peppers. Root vegetables can be stored at room temperature ONLY if they are to be consumed within a day or two; otherwise, keep them in the fridge. One exception I always make is garlic, which seems to retain its flavor better when kept at room temperature. But for the love of God, don't ever put a "fruit" vegetable (ie a tomato or avocado) in the fridge unless it's been cut. Even then, I leave those out unless I know I won't be finishing it for a few days. Refrigeration positively murders the flavor of the juicier fruits and especially tomatoes and citrus.

• Take some time to wash and store vegetables properly when you return from the store. First, invest in a salad spinner. Use this to wash and dry all greens and herbs, then LOOSELY pack them into plastic bags and refrigerate. Pull out any browning pieces every day or so, which will prevent these from contaminating the rest. You may also wish to wash and chop other veggies for easier use later. On the other hand, avoid chopping veggies that you probably won't use for several days. They will dry out and end up tasting like everything else in the refrigerator.

• Wash your herbs in advance, but don't cut them. Cutting herbs causes them to bruise which results in rapid decomposition. If you find that you have a baggie full of herbs you probably won't be using in the next few days, move them to the freezer or hang them up to dry instead.

• Do not pack vegetables into crisper drawers— they will only rot faster. Instead, place a few loosely into the drawers and the rest on shelves with plenty of space. Like people, vegetables are not happy if they can't breathe.

Aged Vegetables (i.e. slightly softened, bruised, limp, or tasting of the refrigerator— but definitely not rotten): These do not have to be cooked, but they have lost their flavor and at least some of their nutrition. Therefore it is wisest to prepare these with other ingredients that provide satisfying flavor and texture.

• Often, these can be perked right up by being soaked in very cold water for 15 minutes or so.

• These are perfect for juicing or, in the case of greens, chopping up and adding to soups or smoothies.

• Non-leafies can be grated and easily mixed in with other salads, especially tuna/salmon/chicken salad, slaws, or sauerkraut.

• In general these work very well in recipes that involve chopping/grating/shredding the vegetables into small pieces and cooking with other strong flavors, ie, adding at to a stir-fry towards the end of cooking or lightly steaming and then marinating in vinaigrette for a few hours.

• These are the ideal vegetables for any recipe that involves baking, ie sliced on top of pizzas, cooked into muffins or breads (zucchini bread! carrot cake!), or added to stratas and casseroles.

• These are also ideal for dehydrating if you have a dehydrator or can reliably set your oven to less than 180°, since technically these vegetables are a little dehydrated already. Carrots and squashes work especially well; simply cut into thin slices, dip in soy sauce (add a little chili powder for extra zing), and dehydrate until the consistency is how you like it.

Funky, or “Dead” Vegetables (i.e. bruised or having some rotten parts): Funky vegetables are not suitable for eating raw but can be incorporated into many cooked dishes, especially ones that involve blending the vegetables or cooking them to the point of mush. This should render whatever funk might be growing on the vegetables harmless, plus help to concentrate whatever nutrition is left. Make sure to wash these vegetables very well and cut out any moldy/wormy/highly discolored parts before cooking them.

• These are perfect for canning, pureeing as soup, or making into sauces (works for fruits, too, ie tomatoes and apples).

• Freeze for use later in vegetable stock.

• Cook well and add to highly seasoned mashed potatoes.

Miscellaneous Parts (i.e. leftover salad, scraps that might otherwise be composted or thrown out): As long as these are clean and not rotten, they can be eaten raw or cooked.

• If it’s a part that you would eat raw under ideal circumstances, it’s suitable for juicing.

• Freeze for use later in vegetable stock.

• Shred and add in small amounts to potting or garden soil for added nutrients, no composting needed.

Mushrooms: A Special Case: Always err on the safe side with mushrooms, i.e., throw them out if you see any signs of rot, and don’t eat aging mushrooms without cooking the bejesus out of them first. In fact, with the exception of the occasional white button mushroom sliced into a salad, mushrooms should not be eaten raw ever. This is because raw mushrooms a) contain compounds that can be potentially toxic; b) can be difficult to digest due to aforementioned compounds, and that’s the least of your worries; and c) are often grown on poop. In fact, the brown “dirt” you see on store-bought mushrooms is not dirt at all, but … you guessed it.

On the other hand, many commercially dried mushrooms are often dehydrated at relatively high temperatures and are therefore sort-of “cooked” already. Even then however, if you are going to eat dehydrated mushrooms without additional cooking, first soak one thoroughly in warm water and eat a very small piece– on an empty stomach-- to make sure your digestive system will tolerate it. The main signs that your system disagrees with a mushroom eaten in small quantity will be flatulence, headache, or nausea, which may sound unpleasant but are far preferable to the Exorcist-type physiological responses the human body may have to eating unvetted mushrooms in quantity.

Bon appetit, and remember: if it doesn't wink at you, you can probably eat it.

Strawberry Sauce

Fully thaw 1 package frozen organic strawberries in a saucepan. Add sweetener to taste and heat gently. Remove from heat and add the juice of 1/2 lemon or 1 t. Grand Marnier. Puree and strain out seeds if desired. Serve over everything, including your thumb.

Polenta with Spinach and Onions

Boil 4 c. water with a little salt and slowly add 1 c. dried polenta in a stream. Cook on medium for 30–40 mins., stirring frequently. Meanwhile saute 1 small onion, diced, in generous oil. Add 1 lb. fresh spinach and cook until tender. Then pour half the polenta into a greased baking pan, spread the spinach over it, add 1 or 2 beaten eggs and grated cheese if desired (optional), and pour rest of polenta on top. Bake at 400° for about 20 mins. or until set. Cool and cut into squares.

ON HEALTH CARE VS. HEALTH INSURANCE, AND VEGETABLES

As anyone in America without a secure salaried job knows, getting and keeping affordable health insurance is not so easy these days. I for one applied for private insurance a few months ago after a change in my employment arrangement— I went from one full-time job with benefits to multiple part-time jobs, none of which qualify for benefits— and assumed, like so many Americans would, that since I don't have any ailments that demand treatment and almost never go to the doctor, I would be a dream candidate for private insurance.

By now you likely know where this is going. As it turns out, any time you get treated for anything under our health insurance system, your doctor puts a diagnosis code in your file. That little code, meant to facilitate your effective treatment, labels you as officially having an illness and stays in your file whether the illness ever shows symptoms again. And it can become the basis for a "pre-existing condition" claim by any insurance company considering you for coverage. Apparently they don't want to insure anyone who actually seeks out health care. So I, having seen a health care provider in the previous 6 months for something other than a routine exam, was easily labeled as having a pre-existing condition and not qualifying for private insurance.

Since I don't qualify for government-subsidized programs because I am not poor or old enough, my only insurance option is COBRA (which my former full-time employer facilitates, though she is not required to do so by law because her company is too small). Which is temporary and hardly affordable. HEY! Thanks for nothing, big useless American health insurance gulag! You call this a "system"?

But c'est la vie. I'm lucky. I'm not actually sick. I have work— sometimes more than I want. I have over a year of COBRA coverage left, during which time I'll continue to reassure myself that President Obama will pass his reform legislation, which might allow me to get insurance by means other than the graciousness of one small business owner. We all tell ourselves little lies to get through the tough times.

Make no mistake about it, though: if President Obama passes the reform he is hoping for, it will not be "health care" reform. At best it will be "health insurance" reform. The two terms, "health care" and "health insurance," have become synonymous in the American consciousness in recent years, and herein lies part of the problem. As Americans we have come to expect that doctors are responsible for our "health care" and if we could only fix the "health insurance" system that mediates our relationships with doctors, why, we'd be able to prevent diabetes and cut the deficit and teach the world to sing in perfect harmony. Perhaps this is a moot debate since the fate of the reform package is now itself in doubt. But needless to say, even if health insurance in this country does change in the near future, our collective attitude towards health care probably will not.

Fortunately, if I've gained one thing from this insurance mess it has been the conviction that as long as my brain is functioning no doctor or company will ever be responsible for my health. I will be responsible for it. This is because I've learned that health insurance = protection from financial catastrophe in the event of an illness. On the other hand, health care = the little decisions a person makes every day to promote his or her physical and emotional well-being. Health insurance is institutional; health care is individual. When, years ago, I went to one doctor after another looking for tests to explain my insomnia and weight gain and none could detect anything worthy of a diagnosis and therefore treatment, that was health insurance. When I started exercising regularly to deal with the problem even without a diagnosis, that was health care. When, a year or so ago, my coverage changed and I was unexpectedly forced to pay $600 out of pocket so a dermatologist could tell me I do not have skin cancer, that was health insurance. When I started eating more antioxidant foods in hopes of preventing cancer, that was health care.

This is certainly not to say that doctors and other health care providers are merely slaves to the big ugly insurance system, that they do not have an important role to play in one's health care. Human beings have always looked to others —those our society deems experts by virtue of their training, their spiritual experience, their age— for counsel and healing. We need these people most when we are in acute distress, which is likely to happen to every one of us at some point in life. But never before have our relationships with health experts been so mediated by external structures that are so out of our control, that do not even know us. Looking outside ones' self for help and healing may be natural but there is nothing natural about the health insurance system that we labor under today. There's nothing natural about a system that will pay for addictive pain meds but not a visit to a chiropractor. There is nothing natural about being given exactly 12 minutes for one's annual gynecological exam. There is nothing natural about spending a hour on the phone with a faceless third-party corporation called "Datalink," who somehow has the rights to one's medical record, just to find out the charge for procuring a copy of the record for onesself. (That's $25 not including postage, if you were wondering, though it's free if you have the record sent to another doctor instead.)

This is why the only way to have a "healthy" relationship with one's health care is to see insurance and everything insurance mediates as a part of it, maybe even just a small part of it, while the rest consists of variables that one can actually control. Eating well. Sleeping. Exercising. Emotional, intellectual, and spiritual development. Holistic approaches. Getting someone to rub your feet once in a while. (Quite a few of my peers in San Francisco skip the insurance part altogether, either by choice or by lack of option, and do OK with just this stuff. As long as they don't get hit by a bus.)

I've been tinkering with this approach and I must say, at least this way I'm the administrator of the cockamamie project called Keeping Ellen Healthy and I get to call the shots. This is also why I need all my health care providers: my doctor, my nutritionist friends, the nursing-school neighbor who will undoubtedly perform CPR on me if I ever have a medical-bill-related heart attack, the two women who rub and crack my neck so I don't get a pinched nerve from endless hours at the computer, my yoga teachers, my boyfriend who cooks for me when I have the flu, all the family members whose wisdom helps me keep my perspective. Some of these people are reimbursed for their services by Oxford/United Health. Others I have to repay myself, any way I can.

These exchanges add up to the true price of my health care, which of course ranges far beyond what I pay for insurance each month. It stinks. I pay more each month for combined health care costs than I do for rent, which is amazing considering that I live in San Francisco (no cheap rent here) and get a lot of services for reduced cost, barter, or free. It's even more amazing considering that I'm not actually sick. The only thing insurance provides me is the security that neither myself nor my loved ones will be bankrupt if I ever do. As part of my total health care budget, I file it as a mental health expense.

Anyway this is my personal health care reform plan for 2010. This is also why I eat a lot of vegetables.

Kale and Carrots with Soy Sauce (vegan and very, very easy)

Shred 1 head kale. Using a potato peeler, make ribbons of 1 large carrot. Mix both in a little oil over medium fire until coated, add 2 cloves crushed garlic and cook a few minutes more, then add a few T. water and cover. Simmer about 10 mins. or until greens are tender. Remove cover, add 1 or 2 T. soy sauce, and cook one minute more.

ON COOKING WITH MEAT, OR NOT

Recently, my boyfriend and I attended an informal dinner gathering at the home of a vegetarian friend. She made stuffed mushrooms, which were delicious. One of the other eaters at the table asked if we were vegetarians and we took our turns diplomatically explaining no, though we both love vegetarian and vegan cooking (we just love vegetables). OK, perhaps I took too much time to delineate my perspective as a nutritionist, which no one asked for. In any event one of the other diners finally snapped "You know what? People need to eat meat like they need fucked-up relationships!" Ouch.

Related anecdote: Shortly thereafter, a different friend (omnivore) complained to me that she was having a vegetarian buddy over for dinner and though she really liked this buddy and didn't "mind" that he was a vegetarian, she felt somewhat put out because she couldn't figure out what to cook for dinner. This conversation took place over the phone and thus my friend could not have seen how my brow furrowed in response. What? I thought. And you call yourself a cook?

OK. I am not a vegetarian. I have been a vegetarian in the past, I have been a vegan, I have been a raw foodist, I have spent long stretches pretending to adhere to the Atkins Diet, I have consumed large amounts of grapefruit, wheatgrass juice, fat free cheez, Splenda, and beverages I fermented in my closet every time some yahoo wrote a book about how doing one of these things would bring me decades of radiant vitality. I've tried it all, and in the end I personally always come back to eating a relatively traditional diet that includes mostly vegetables, whole grains and legumes, minimal processed food, some meat, and the occasional slice of cheesecake. I am not going to argue here that this is the "healthiest" diet for 100% of people, or the most ethical, or the best for the planet. It is, simply, the most sustainable approach for me right now— something I can stick with. When I stop eating meat, my blood sugar goes nuts and my blood pressure gets really low and I get lightheaded and moody and sooner or later I end up cradling a bucket of Popeye's Fried Chicken under my covers, crying that no one will ever really love me. It is much simpler to just eat meat now and again.

But that's what I do, what I put in my body, how I choose to deal with my health. People are different. Some people go through life utterly disgusted by meat, and of course many of the word's inhabitants can't afford to eat that much of it. On the other hand, some people have diseases that cause wasting such that if they don't eat plenty of meat and fat, they'll die. Some people need meat for the efficiency of protein and calories involved, especially in places where fresh vegetables are not available all year. (That's my Official Nutritionist 2 Cents.) But most of us are somewhere in the middle and do experiment from time to time, perhaps making sweeping changes depending on what's appropriate at different times in our lives. There are great arguments for not eating meat, as well as for eating less meat and being incredibly cautious about where our meat comes from. But you know what? Who cares. There's absolutely no place for moralizing when you're cooking or hosting other people.

The only appropriate concerns when you're making food for other people are "What food might we all enjoy together? What will make my guests feel nourished and cared for?" Occasionally, when hosting someone with reputed illness or bad habits, I might ask myself "Is there a way I can prepare vegetables for this person such that they'll like the vegetables, and want to eat more vegetables later?"

But that's as close to moralizing as I like to get. Maybe it's because, after a lifetime of experimenting with diets, I'm used to feeling like the weirdo at the table and hating it... not because I can't eat what everybody else is eating, but because I hate feeling judged. Judgment just goes down wrong with home cooking. The two are incompatible. There is no place in this business— and I mean the business of home cooking, not the capital-B "Business" of professional cooking— for questioning people's individual priorities. The home cook is skilled and open-minded enough to adapt, knowing that someday her own priorities might change too.

I understand that in professional and celebrity circles, people can have very strong opinions about this. Anthony Bourdain is one example that leaps to mind. His blind loathing of all things vegetarian always seems so out of place to me when it pops up in his writing and speaking, a strange tic that doesn't jive with what is otherwise an incredible generosity of spirit (at least as far as food and cooks are concerned). But again, he is a professional. He works in restaurants, or at least he used to, and he hates it when people question or criticize his cooking methods just as I hate it when someone questions mine. The difference is that I have a distinct choice of who I cook for, which he does not. That choice, and any appreciation that those guests might feel for my cooking, are my reward for cooking whereas his is financial. (I could easily digress into a treatise on paid professional cooking which is traditionally men's work, vs. unpaid home cooking which is traditionally women's work, but alas I'll save that for another day.)

Anyway I'm sure Anthony Bourdain could care less what I have to say but the example stands. If one wants to be dogmatic about what other people should or should not eat for ethical reasons, one can keep one's grubby mitts off the wooden spoon and go to culinary school (or nutrition school!) and only deal with people who are willing to pay big bucks to agree. Fortunately the rest of us can afford to be a little more open-minded— whether we're cooking for the enemy or eating the dinner they have so lovingly prepared for us.

Creamy Sesame Vinaigrette (vegan + raw)

In a jar, mix 2 parts oil, 1 part soy sauce or nama shoyu, 1 part vinegar, 1 part sesame tahini, and sweetener to taste. Shake it, shake it, shake it! Optional: Also add 1 part chopped cashews or sesame seeds.

This works as a salad dressing or as a dip for crudite and nori rolls.

Meatball Sandwiches

Combine ground meat, minced parsley, raw egg, breadcrumbs, and salt in a bowl. Shape into balls and brown on all sides. Meanwhile, saute minced onion and garlic and add diced tomato to make a sauce. Add browned meatballs to the sauce and complete cooking. Slice the cooked meatballs in half and serve with extra sauce on soft rolls that have been toasted with provolone cheese.

Football-watching food!

Potato Salad with Parsley and Black Olives (vegan)

Scrub, chop, and steam red or fingerling potatoes (skin on). Place in bowl and sprinkle liberally with white or red wine vinegar; cover to cool. Meanwhile, prepare dressing using 2 parts oil, 2 parts chopped black olives, 1 part white/red vinegar, 1 part chopped parsley, and ground mustard to taste. Mix well with potatoes and serve.

I don't have anything against mayo, but a potato salad made without mayo keeps for a lot longer. In fact, it gets better the longer you let it sit.

Crock Pot Brisket with Tomatoes

Place a large piece of brisket (1–2 lbs. minimum) in a crock pot and cover with chopped or canned tomatoes, red or white wine, 1 chopped onion, 1 T. oregano, several cloves garlic, and salt to taste. Cook on high for 5–6 hours. Serve with noodles, polenta, or smashed potatoes.

So here's what happened: I was cleaning out my freezer and I found a giant hunk of brisket. It was icy. It was grayish. It looked, well, unappetizing. So I stuck it in my fridge and planned to marinate it in soy sauce etc. the next day. But I forgot. Three days later I found the hunk, now mostly defrosted and drippy, but still gray, threatening to develop its own ecosystem in the back of my fridge. As you may guess, Mother Thrift got the best of me again and I did NOT throw out the brisket. Instead I devised the above. The result? I am using my finger to remove the last bits of tomatoey meat juice from the crock as we speak.

Needless to say, you could probably make the above recipe with any variety of outdated meat hunk you find lurking in your freezer and it would still be delicious, but since a crock pot is the only way I know of to produce a soft, flavorful brisket without hours/days of marinating, well, this dish just seems like a slam dunk to me. Plus it's cheap AND easy (much like my best friend from junior high). Plus it's brisket.

Potato Leek Plus

Saute 1 large leek (chopped) in butter. Add 3 potatoes, chopped, 1 quart seafood stock, and 1–2 t. salt. Simmer until potatoes are soft, about 30 mins. Then mash the potatoes with a ricer, or puree. Optional: Add 1 lb. white fish and continue cooking until the fish is done, and/or thicken finished soup with cream.

Spinach Pie with Mushrooms and Swiss Cheese

Mix 1 1/5 c. of each of the following in a bowl: cottage cheese, grated swiss cheese, cooked chopped spinach, sauteed mushrooms, and browned onions. Add 3 eggs, beaten, a splash of milk, and salt to taste. Pour into an unbaked pie crust (whole wheat is good) and bake at 350° for 50 minutes. Cool before eating.

ON THE NEW YEAR, FISCAL UNCERTAINTY, AND SHOPPING IN BULK WITH COUPONS

Like a lot of people, I’m tightening the budget in 2010. This isn’t my New Year’s resolution, rather a continuation of the same old drag that started mid-2008 and promises to continue until, oh, I die. The economy is not getting better anytime soon, at least not for anyone whose job title includes the word “writer” or “editor.” Ahhh well. We were living a little too high on the hog anyway.

One upside to all this is that, in an effort to spend less money, I’m eating in a lot more. I obviously like cooking so this is no tragedy. But am I the only one? Sure there are restaurants going under left and right, at least in high-rent San Francisco— but for every one that closes, another opens up in its place a week later. Many seem to be doing quite well, actually, especially those that were well-run and put a premium on “value” to begin with. (Case in point: The inexpensive Korean place near my house is doing better than ever. Huge entrees, including something called the “Pile ‘O Meat,” range from $9 to $15. The waitresses are the fastest in the West and even bring you a free scallion pancake appetizer before your meal and a slice of melon gum after. Awesome.)

Back to my point though— while writer/editors may not be making much money these days, the restaurant business seems to be doing just fine. Maybe I should go to culinary school; at least that might provide some room for career development. But then, I’ve never been so attracted to restaurant kitchens or even gourmet restaurant food. I like my food; it’s not fancy, but it fulfills all my nutritional needs for under $10 a day. I like my kitchen; it’s small, but I don’t have to “cooperate” with anyone in there. I like cooking things any damn way I want to (as opposed to following another chef’s dictate), and I like sitting down to eat with the people I cooked for. I like the intimacy of making food for a few people at once and actually seeing the surprise on their faces when they bite into the eggshells I accidentally baked into their cheesecake. I like cooking for people who I know for a fact don’t suck. I especially like it when they bring wine to my house.

Again I guess this is what makes me a home cook and not a professional cook, and definitely not a gourmet. I do have a fantasy that someday I’ll open my own café— the little kind that’s like an extension of my own home, where the kitchen is open onto the dining room so patrons have to appreciate the sweat on my brow and my taste for loud Led Zeppelin whether they like it or not. Until then though I’ll be spending most nights at my very own stove, stirring my discount beans and plotting my next career move.

Cashew Coconut Granola (vegan)

Toss 5 c. oats, 2 c. coconut, 2 c. cashew pieces, 1/2 c. oil, 1/2 c. honey, 1 t. cinnamon, and 1/2 t. nutmeg in a large bowl. Spread on baking sheet and bake at 300° for 20–30 mins., stirring twice. Remove and add 1 c. packed raisins. Cool.

Crock Pot Black Beans (vegan)

Fill crock pot 1/3 with black beans (soaked overnight). Add water until pot is half full. Add 1 chopped onion, a few cloves garlic, 1–3 t. salt, 1–3 t. chili, and 1 t. cumin; if desired also add a few slices of bacon or a sausage, chopped, and/or 1 t. dried epazote. Cook on high for about 6 hours.

CROCK POTS F***ING RULE! If you want to make this vegan, of course, use veggie chorizo or omit the "meaty" stuff altogether.

Curry Veggies with Coconut Milk (vegan)

Saute 1 onion, chopped, in 2 T. oil. When onions are soft, add 4 c. chopped veggies (chop large) and 2 cloves minced garlic. Saute 5 mins. and add optional 1 c. diced tofu. Turn down heat, add 1/4 c. water, cover, and cook 5 mins. more. Add 1/4 c. soy sauce, dash vinegar, 2 T. curry powder, 1 T. turmeric, and 1/2 c. coconut milk. Mix and allow sauce to thicken. Serve with rice or rice noodles.

Note: This makes 4 moderate servings or 2–3 large ones. You can easily make this with chicken, just add thinly slice chicken with initial 4 c. veggies. If you like spicy sauce, you can also add 1 t. dried chili with the other spices.

Beet Borsht (vegan)

Simmer 1 (big) thinly sliced beet in 4 c. water for 20 mins. In separate pot, saute 1 thinly sliced onion with salt and oil until soft; add 1 stalk celery + 1 large carrot + 1/2 small cabbage (all thinly sliced). Cook for 10 mins. then add beets and beet water, 3. T. dill, 1/4 c. vinegar, and sweetener to taste. Cook 20 mins. more.

This goes nicely with dairy or nondairy sour cream or yogurt.